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Converting a SII or Traveller to Power Windows

I've already submitted this for entry into the FAQ, as well as submitted pictures (pending approval) to the Photopost. I figured I'd post it here too so those interested can get a jump start on their own project.

Converting a Scout II or Traveller to Power Windows

Rated on a scale of one to ten for difficulty, one being easy and 10 being difficult, I'd rate this one a 3 if you have a welder, 4 if you don't. I got this idea from the web site "4x4guru.com". I started the process based on what the website suggested and will elaborate on it in this FAQ. Except for the switch wiring, this took me 2 hours of junkyard scrounging and 4 hours of work in/on the doors and regulator.

 

 

 

This is a shot of the stock window scissor/lift and the regulator. I zip tied the scissor in place to make things easier to handle. Normally the scissor will fully extend if it's not held in place.



You'll need the regulators from the passenger and drivers side of a late 80's Ford Econoline van with power windows. See the picture to get an idea of what you're looking for. A hammer and steel chisel or a battery powered drill work well if you're looking in the junkyard. They're held in from the factory with rivets. You can take the window motors too, but if you can find the newer, smaller style I'd recommend using those instead. Either will work. You'll also need to find rivets or use a bolt/nut combination to attach the new regulator to the scissor assembly in the door. More on that later.

 

This is a picture of how the newer regulator from a Ford Econoline van with power windows looks compared to the stock manual-crank IH regulator. Notice the length of the arm - just cut the new arm to length and drill a hole for mounting the regulator to the IH scissor/lift assembly.

Once you have the parts, you'll need to take your door apart. I recommend wearing mechanics gloves to do the remaining parts of this job. Digging around in the door and holding the scissor lift can be dangerous for skin and fingers. Take the interior door panels off and remove the main window. Check a service manual for instructions or just start taking things apart to get the window out. There's a little tab held in with 2 screws in the top of the vent window that keeps the window from moving too far up. Don't forget it. This is a good time to clean up and rust proof the inside of the door, and to install new window to door seals from a Light Line vendor.

Next, hold the scissor part of the assembly (pull down on it and grip it tightly) through the big access hole in the door and take the 4 screws out of the window regulator (the part the window crank connects to). When you remove the last few screws, you'll feel the scissor assembly try to snap up to the top of the window. You may want help with this part - if you let go of the scissor, it can break or scratch the window or dent the door. It's not difficult to hang on to, but if you let go, watch your fingers!

Now gently let the scissor move up to the top of the door. It'll eventually stop when it touches the top. Take the 5 screws that hold the scissor assembly to the door and you can remove the entire regulator and scissor.

Take the whole thing to the workbench. Using a hand grinder, a drill with a big bit, or a hand file (if you like pain), grind the mushroomed head off the rivet that holds the long arm of the scissor to the regulator and punch it out. Leave the long arm attached to the scissor. Set the scissor assembly to the side for now.

Time to hack up the Ford regulators. First, you'll need to make the regulator arms flat. They're bent in two places from the factory. Use a big hammer on the end furthest from the pivot point. On the bend closer to the pivot point, I used a long punch through a rivet hole in the regulator and beat it straight on a bench vice. Now measure from the pivot point on the IH regulator to the hole in the end where the rivet used to be. I believe it's 3&3/8". Measure the same on the Ford regulator and drill or mark a small hole. We'll enlarge it later. Measure past the hole you drilled about 1" and cut the regulator arm off at that point (see the pictures). You can grind the Ford regulator arm until it's somewhat rounded at the cut end if you like. I'd recommend at least smoothing the sharp edges.

Now we need to get the holes drilled in the door for the new regulator. It bolts into the door a little higher than the old regulator. Use a little magic and some patience here and you'll get it. I used thin cardboard to transfer the holes in the regulator to the right spots, verifying that the new regulator and the old regulator both pivoted in the same place. In other words, bolt the regulator in keeping the geometry the old regulator used the same. If you get it right, you'll notice the gear shaft hole for the power window motor sits a little high in the old window crank shaft hole. My door had a gaping hole in it from the previous owner's adventures with a drill to apparently install a speaker. It actually made things easier, as I could see the regulator and scissor arm attachment point with everything inside the door. If you don't have one, you might want to cut a hole so you can see things, too. Not necessary though.



Now take the new regulator back to the bench and put the old regulators up for sale. Mine were both shot, I tossed them in the garbage. If you grabbed the window motors from the Ford van, grease everything up well and bolt 'em in. If you grabbed the newer motors, simply cut a slot in the top motor hole of the regulator and use a washer to spread the load of the bolt, grease everything up and bolt the motors in.

 

This is a shot of a newer style Ford power window motor. The only differences between the new and old motors are the physical size of the motor (older style is barrel shaped and larger) and the top mounting hole of the motor. The newer style's top mounting hole is about 1/4" higher than the old style. Not to worry though, either motor will work. I simply cut a slot in the top of my regulator and used a washer to spread the load. Worked fine!


Now we're to the "hard" part. Connect the long arm of the scissor assembly to the new regulator. You'll need to use a little ingenuity here. This is where my welder came in handy. I suppose the easy way would be to get another rivet. I used a steel bushing and bolt scenario with thin nylon washers between the moving parts to keep friction low. On the regulator, I spot welded 4 nuts to the back side to make installation in the door a snap. I also checked all the other rivets and pounded a few of them a little more to get rid of some slop in the connections.

 

 

Once it's connected, grease everything up and bolt it all back into the door and test the motor. Run the polarity one way for up, the other way for down. Wire up a set of switches (your choice, I recommend the older, chrome GM style as they bolt up easily), put the doors back together and you're DONE!


__________________
-- Dano
Dan Polk

 

I paid $45 for 2 window motors out of a '94 Ford explorer, and $35 for the two Ford

Econoline regulators. I just saw a pair of new style window motors go for $35 on E-bay,

so I felt I got a pretty good price. The regulators were a bit high, but they were perfect -

no wear at all.

 

-- Dano

Dan Polk